Wednesday, January 23, 2019

This will be hard - The Choeung EK Genocidal Center and Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum

Summet was at our hotel early.  Michelle noticed him at 8:45.  We rushed breakfast and KT to keep him from waiting.  I was really happy to see him again.  He indicated traffic might extend an hours drive to a little longer.  That's ok. More time to talk.  Traffic was kinda stuck here and there.  As he had been an Tuk Tuk driver for 15 years, he knew all the tricks and routes.  I really enjoyed how calmly and slowly he drove.  The last few KM's to The Choeung EK Genocidal Center was all kinda awesome back roads.  https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Choeung_Ek

I'm glad we knew him because it was way out of the normal way :-)  Once at the center he indicated he would wait in the shaded parking area.  He said 1.5 hours with an audio tour will provide enough time.  Tickets were inexpensive along with an English audio headset.  We each took our time listening at our own pace.

It was seriously hard to deal with.  Although permitted to take pictures, we could not.  After returning our headsets, Summet asked if we wanted to eat.  I don't think any of us felt like it but did to provide a healthy distraction.  I was most concerned with KT as this story is news to her.  She was shaken and lunch provided a good time to talk.  On the drive to S21, the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, Michelle did not think she could do it.  KT wanted too.  As it was not far from our hostel, we committed.  Michelle decided to last minute. Good for her.  http://tuolsleng.gov.kh/en/

Once again audio headsets were donned and now an even more in your face torture center was presented.  It's so difficult to grasp how humans can behave this way.   Once a school then a torture center. We each came out so pissed off at how slowly the world reacted to what happened here.  Why?  As these acts continue even today possibly in Syria, we all decided to look deep and do much more.

There is just no way we feel it's right to take pictures here.  If you do choose to visit Cambodia though I highly recommend you visit these 2 places.  As hard as it is, there is much benefit to experiencing it.

We gave Summet a huge hug after being safely returned to our hostel.  It was time for a healthy dose of something positive  We decided to watch a movie in our hotel room.  Christopher Robin fit the bill nicely :-)

More info can be found here on these places
https://www.thecommonwanderer.com/blog/tuol-sleng-s21-guide-phnom-penh
http://www.killingfieldsmuseum.com/s21-victims.html

Restoring Family Links in Cambodia
https://familylinks.icrc.org/en/Pages/Countries/Cambodia.aspx?from=Cambodia&to=0

Goodbye Siem Reap - Let's take a river boat to Phnom Pehn

It was time to move to our next city, Phnom Pehn.  Normally a 5 hour drive, Michelle found an optional river ride with Tara River Boat Tours http://www.taraboat.com/travel-tours/siem-reap-to-phnom-pehn.html  3.5 hours of Taxi followed by 4.5 hours of gentle river.  Sounds great.  The Taxi was prompt and really comfortable.  A driver and assistant let us read/rest and provided water and washroom stops at any time.  The roads are fantastic on this flat countryside.

Soon we were parked by the river and our heavy bags were on board.  The boat is old but really cool.  It seats around 20 but today it was only us.  We quickly met the captain, chef and someones cute small child and dog.  Our stuff was stowed by our tour guide Summet.  We were provided a chance to sit in the shade at the top deck while Summet fetched our freshly made lunch.  An amazing salad, cooked chicken, beef, rice and plenty of fruit.  After lunch Summet sat with us and we had some real conversations.

Cambodian people have experienced far too much suffering.  Countless wars, genocide and occupations have resulted in a massive number of poor.  Summet was born into civil war.  His brother and father forced to fight.  He was raised by a grandparent and is yet to find his family.  He has no idea where they are.  KT asked him if he can show her the Cambodian alphabet.  He had a hard time with close up writing but still provided all the help he could.  It turned out an accident damaged his eyes and no technology or glasses can yet fix it.  He is still able to hold multiple jobs to support his wife and 2 young children whom are only seen one day a week, hopefully.  Despite all the challenges, he is enormously kind and gentle.  He remains optimistic of a bright future as for now there are no wars.

As we approached the city of Phnom Pehn, the river is lined with the poor.  They live in shacks floating on and near the waters edge. Many of them have been displaced from their homes caused by recent development sites..  We all felt paralyzed and had great conversations of what we could do to help.  The boat was soon at it's destination and we lugged our bags to the shoreline.  Summets car has not very far away and we were taxi'd to our new Phnom Pehn home, the Billabong Hostel http://www.thebillabonghotel.com

Summet asked us if we wanted to do a tour the next day.  He suggested the Genocide Museum and The Killing Fields.  At first I thought we could decide at a later day but immediately calculated this may be our only chance we could help each other.  Although the tour topics will be tough, it is the right thing to do.  We committed to it and let him decide his best time for a pickup.  9 AM gave us time to rest which we do certainly need.  Tomorrow will be hard.

Thanks Tara Taxi


Lets board




Captains quarters


He is invisible


Lotsa stuff


All to ourselves


The view from the second deck







Summet assisting KT with the Cambodian alphabet


He can barely see this close
Working mostly from memory he did an amazing job


Land ho


Suiting up


Coconut train


Summet after dropping us off
Super nice guy


Movie Links
Our Lazy boatride view


Siem Reap Cambodia - Day 3 - Phnom Kulen National Park - Mountain/Waterfall/Reclining Buddha

We thought it would be nice to book a day that had some hiking.  Our day started with a quick breakfast and prompt pickup.  We had over an hour's drive and I hoped to chill.  Our guide tried so hard to share knowledge with us on the trip but I had a really hard time with his speed and accent.  I had to tune out.  Luckily another person was sitting in front of me so I did not appear rude.  Super nice guy.

The drive was easy enough.  The roads are great here.  A portion of the trip is along a flat section that has become hilariously wavy like being on the water.  Once near the mountain, it's one way only.  From 9-12, only upward traffic is permitted.  After 12, the direction switches.  It's a good idea preventing traffic jams.  These roads and switchbacks are nothing in comparison to Nepal.  It was a breeze  We stopped for photos half way up.  Soon parked we headed out to see interesting riverbed carvings and walked to the reclining Buddha.  We picked a Buddhist celebration day, doh.  It was kinda busy but still cool.  Our guide knew some tricks to avoid the foot traffic as well as some back end trails.  Cool.  The day ended with a pretty cooling waterfall.  Although super popular, it was nice to get our feet wet.  Makeshift change rooms offer people to rent a bathing suit.  Water access is along steep sharp rocks. Eeek.  Glad nobody fell.  A quick stop along the route home was made to explain Palm Sugar.  Kinda cool.  Male and female plants offer different "flowers" for making palm sugar.  I think was was preferred.  The trees are climbed on cool bamboo ladders.  The flowers are cut and their contents gravity fed into a bamboo holder.  Eventually the sap is collected and heated much like maple syrup.  Eventually after thickening, the sap is placed into molds for consumption.  Yum Yum.    It was a simpler day than yesterday and actually pretty relaxing.

Half way up




Don't jump


Notice the vine leading down below KT?


It leads to this seat.  After climbing down, it's used to collect honey


Our guide explaining these many riverbed carvings called Linga's









Let's check out the Reclining Buddha





Someone cannot read





Spring water, lovely


Our guide found this little creature


Cute


Top of the waterfall


The base of this section
During Rainy season, it's really high


Nice.  Getting nibbled a little too






Bamboo ladder


To climb this tree


The tools and flower


After boiling


Granular sugar and cakes sold here


Making fresh one's yum 


Sweet yummies made by a sweet lady
  

Some Pano's




Some movie links

A Natural Spring

Reclining Buddha area

Making yummies with palm sugar